December 16, 2016
Dahlia and her Peter Pan collar, the tutorial!
hello! last day before the holidays (yoouuhhhhhhooouuu) to celebrate this I offer you a little pattern tutorial, the making of a Peter Pan collar or a flat collar, for your Dahlia blouse. The pattern lends itself wonderfully because it is already designed to support a collar (the pretty gathered collar with collar stand, but hey it's good to vary the pleasures right?!). I chose to make a Dahlia dress with the sublime viscose from Wear lemonade (soft and easy to sew and this print!!!) and the collar is in luxury white crepe from Cousette (perfect because it does not crease but can be ironed). I will explain to you how to make the collar on your pattern sheet: come and put your front bust and back yoke pieces shoulder to shoulder. 
On the back yoke piece, remove 3 cm as in the photo, then come and superimpose your shoulder lines according to this new mark. 
For the outline, I chose to make a single piece collar, so the center front will be positioned at the fold. I drew a 5 cm margin from my center front to my center back, and then I drew my curve. I went down 2 cm vertically for the portion at the fold. 
Cut out your pattern and transfer it onto your fabric, add the seam allowance in the middle back only. Cut into two copies. 
Line what will be the top portion of your collar. 
Pin and assemble your collar pieces right sides together, leaving the entire neckline portion unsewn so you can turn it inside out, and carefully negotiate your curves (it's a bit the same story as for the Iris jumpsuit code, the step-by-step instructions for which are here ). 
Trim your excess seam allowances and corners. Turn inside out and iron well. Assembling the collar: make your bust darts on the front bust piece. Make your seam allowances on the center back line of your back yokes (the red line extends the pattern markings, the edge of your finished back yoke will be according to this line), assemble the back bust and the back yokes with the edges of the yokes aligned with the markings in the middle of the back fold. Then assemble your front bust and back yoke pieces by the shoulders right sides together. 
Pin your collar right side against right side of the bust. Overlock your seam allowance and fold it towards the inside of your garment with an iron. Secure it with a stitch at 0.7 cm, so your seam allowance will no longer come out. 
Congratulations!!! You have your flat neck Dahlia! 
For the dress version I simply lengthened the model by 40 cm, without modifying the side line but by extending it, however I have not very defined hips so see if you want to lengthen it. The flat fold of the back still gives ease at the bottom. 
I hope you like this little tutorial, I apologize for the not always great quality of the photos but I had to sew it at night and photos worn at the end of the day... very happy holidays to all!
On the back yoke piece, remove 3 cm as in the photo, then come and superimpose your shoulder lines according to this new mark. For the outline, I chose to make a single piece collar, so the center front will be positioned at the fold. I drew a 5 cm margin from my center front to my center back, and then I drew my curve. I went down 2 cm vertically for the portion at the fold. Cut out your pattern and transfer it onto your fabric, add the seam allowance in the middle back only. Cut into two copies. Line what will be the top portion of your collar. Pin and assemble your collar pieces right sides together, leaving the entire neckline portion unsewn so you can turn it inside out, and carefully negotiate your curves (it's a bit the same story as for the Iris jumpsuit code, the step-by-step instructions for which are here ). Trim your excess seam allowances and corners. Turn inside out and iron well. Assembling the collar: make your bust darts on the front bust piece. Make your seam allowances on the center back line of your back yokes (the red line extends the pattern markings, the edge of your finished back yoke will be according to this line), assemble the back bust and the back yokes with the edges of the yokes aligned with the markings in the middle of the back fold. Then assemble your front bust and back yoke pieces by the shoulders right sides together. Pin your collar right side against right side of the bust. Overlock your seam allowance and fold it towards the inside of your garment with an iron. Secure it with a stitch at 0.7 cm, so your seam allowance will no longer come out. Congratulations!!! You have your flat neck Dahlia! For the dress version I simply lengthened the model by 40 cm, without modifying the side line but by extending it, however I have not very defined hips so see if you want to lengthen it. The flat fold of the back still gives ease at the bottom. I hope you like this little tutorial, I apologize for the not always great quality of the photos but I had to sew it at night and photos worn at the end of the day... very happy holidays to all!
