May 06, 2016
Embrun step by step.
Here I am again! As promised, here is THE STEP BY STEP GUIDE TO ASSEMBLING EMBRUN: You will absolutely have to mark the reference points of your pattern pieces (darts, pocket and yoke flap areas) with a basting thread or by tracing with tailor's chalk or an erasable pen. Also, don't forget to transfer the assembly notches which will ensure precision and make assembly easier. And also make a notch to mark the middle of the pieces at the fold. The pocket piping and topstitching are done on the right side of the fabric, take this into account when transferring your assembly marks. Don't hesitate to make a toile beforehand , without cutting the entire leg length or making the buttonholes, pocket, etc. This will allow you to validate the dimensions of your pants so that they fit you perfectly. The fabric used to make the pants in the step by step is a very pretty jacquard from Cousette . Forward: Assemble the front side leg and front side waistband pieces right side to right side. Be careful the curves of the pieces are in opposite directions so you will have to "constrain" your fabric when pinning. Press the seam allowances upwards with an iron and overlock. 
The buttonholes of the middle front piece: Come and make 3 buttonholes (horizontal or vertical direction, it's up to you to decide which aesthetic you like the most, they only have a decorative function). They are located in the boundary that you will then topstitch on your yoke. Be careful when you come to sew them, they must be below your 1 cm size seam allowance, and centered in your "frame" which will delimit the topstitching. 
Assembling the front leg pieces: Position the front leg pieces side and front leg middle right sides together, overlapping the portion of the yoke that is sticking out and the notch that corresponds to the fold. Your sewing will be done in the extension of the pieces along the middle of the leg, so start 1 cm from the fold notch in order to keep this seam allowance when you have passed the yoke. 
Overlock and fold your yokes and seam allowance towards the middle of the leg. The front topstitching: you will sew with a slightly wider straight stitch your topstitching (I used 3 on my machine, do some tests to see what you like in the aesthetics of this topstitching). You sew at 0.3 cm ON THE RIGHT SIDE (rib stitching) following your basting stitch along the buttonholes then along the middle of the leg (be careful to correctly trap your yokes and your seam allowances). 
the back leg: Make your clip on each of the back leg pieces. Iron well and press the clip towards the middle with the iron. 
The piped pocket: we attack the big technical part of the pants…. You prepare your piping: iron on the wrong side of your pieces and fold inside out, marking with the iron according to your mark. 
Iron-on the pocket location to the wrong side of the pants. Place one of the pipings on the right side of the pants according to your mark (the middle of the piping coming on the upper line of your pocket opening), the raw edge of the piping facing the middle or against the future slit. Sew along the center of the piping, leaving 1 cm of unsewn margin on each side to be able to turn it over. Do the same with the 2nd piping on the lower portion. 
Place your pocket lining right side against right side on each piping, and stitch the lining exactly on the piping seam. Split the trouser fabric between the piping, and cut your corners well up to the stitching lines. 
Pull your lining through the slit, and push to turn your piping inside out as well. 
To form your pocket you must spread the piping well away from the slit lines, you have a small triangle of fabric that comes with it and that you will also bring out well. You fold your pocket bottom "top" on the "bottom" so that they overlap, and you sew the piping, the triangle and the pocket bottoms together. Make your seam well all around the pocket bottom to go up towards the other side and finish again with the piping/triangle/pocket bottom assembly. Eliminate your excess seam. Iron well. Overlock your pocket bottom. 
Knowing that your pocket is placed on your buttock, it may open and reveal the lining. I advise you to come and sew your piping edge to edge with small stitches to keep the pocket in place. But if you feel like it, you can make a buttonhole in the dart portion under your pocket. Your button will be sewn from your pocket bottom and will hold everything in place. Front and back assembly: Come and superimpose right side against right side your front piece and your back leg piece, stitch along the leg starting from the crotch to the bottom. 
Open and overlock your seam. Place the 2 pieces together, right sides together, front portions facing each other and back portions facing each other, with your crotch lines overlapping. Sew and overlock. 
Come and assemble your belt back to back right side against right side . Overlock and iron your seam allowance upwards. 
You can now assemble the side of your legs: position the front right side against right side with the back, and sew BUT BE CAREFUL determine which side your zip is on and leave open by relying on the mark. Open your seam with an iron and overlock. Installing the zip : open your zip fully. Pin one side of your zip right side against right side on your pants from the waist to the zip stop notch (the top of the zip must be 1 cm from the edge of the waist so as not to pick up on your waistband seam allowance). You can first baste your seam by hand in order to stabilize your work. Sew as close as possible to the zip using the special zipper foot on your machine as low as possible. You will be stopped by the pull tab. Close your zip and pin the 2nd side of your zip, taking care to match your seams with your waistline. Again, do not hesitate to baste your seam and check your work before sewing. Sew your seam and remove your basting. Finish sewing each ribbon at the bottom of your zipper into your seam allowances with a regular foot. 
. the shapes: Iron-on your shaping pieces and assemble them right side to right side , LEAVING OPEN THE PART WHERE THE ZIP WILL BE LOCATED (usually on the right for right-handed people and left for left-handed people). Overlock your shaping piece obtained. Position your shaping pieces on your pants right side to right side. Assemble along your pieces and when you reach the corner of the zip, leave the needle in, pivot your piece and finish your sewing at the bottom of your shaping. You will then trim your corners and turn your pieces over. You now have top-notch finishes! Iron well. 
Finishing: You will come to topstitch the edge of your belt, this will have a decorative purpose but also it will flatten your shape well. Widen your stitch as for the topstitching in front, and sew. Hem your bottom of pants, sew your buttons through your buttonholes by sewing the different pieces of fabric well…..and there you have it, congratulations, you have finished your pants! 
The buttonholes of the middle front piece: Come and make 3 buttonholes (horizontal or vertical direction, it's up to you to decide which aesthetic you like the most, they only have a decorative function). They are located in the boundary that you will then topstitch on your yoke. Be careful when you come to sew them, they must be below your 1 cm size seam allowance, and centered in your "frame" which will delimit the topstitching. 
Assembling the front leg pieces: Position the front leg pieces side and front leg middle right sides together, overlapping the portion of the yoke that is sticking out and the notch that corresponds to the fold. Your sewing will be done in the extension of the pieces along the middle of the leg, so start 1 cm from the fold notch in order to keep this seam allowance when you have passed the yoke. 
Overlock and fold your yokes and seam allowance towards the middle of the leg. The front topstitching: you will sew with a slightly wider straight stitch your topstitching (I used 3 on my machine, do some tests to see what you like in the aesthetics of this topstitching). You sew at 0.3 cm ON THE RIGHT SIDE (rib stitching) following your basting stitch along the buttonholes then along the middle of the leg (be careful to correctly trap your yokes and your seam allowances). 
the back leg: Make your clip on each of the back leg pieces. Iron well and press the clip towards the middle with the iron. 
The piped pocket: we attack the big technical part of the pants…. You prepare your piping: iron on the wrong side of your pieces and fold inside out, marking with the iron according to your mark. 
Iron-on the pocket location to the wrong side of the pants. Place one of the pipings on the right side of the pants according to your mark (the middle of the piping coming on the upper line of your pocket opening), the raw edge of the piping facing the middle or against the future slit. Sew along the center of the piping, leaving 1 cm of unsewn margin on each side to be able to turn it over. Do the same with the 2nd piping on the lower portion. 
Place your pocket lining right side against right side on each piping, and stitch the lining exactly on the piping seam. Split the trouser fabric between the piping, and cut your corners well up to the stitching lines. 
Pull your lining through the slit, and push to turn your piping inside out as well. 
To form your pocket you must spread the piping well away from the slit lines, you have a small triangle of fabric that comes with it and that you will also bring out well. You fold your pocket bottom "top" on the "bottom" so that they overlap, and you sew the piping, the triangle and the pocket bottoms together. Make your seam well all around the pocket bottom to go up towards the other side and finish again with the piping/triangle/pocket bottom assembly. Eliminate your excess seam. Iron well. Overlock your pocket bottom. 
Knowing that your pocket is placed on your buttock, it may open and reveal the lining. I advise you to come and sew your piping edge to edge with small stitches to keep the pocket in place. But if you feel like it, you can make a buttonhole in the dart portion under your pocket. Your button will be sewn from your pocket bottom and will hold everything in place. Front and back assembly: Come and superimpose right side against right side your front piece and your back leg piece, stitch along the leg starting from the crotch to the bottom. 
Open and overlock your seam. Place the 2 pieces together, right sides together, front portions facing each other and back portions facing each other, with your crotch lines overlapping. Sew and overlock. 
Come and assemble your belt back to back right side against right side . Overlock and iron your seam allowance upwards. 
You can now assemble the side of your legs: position the front right side against right side with the back, and sew BUT BE CAREFUL determine which side your zip is on and leave open by relying on the mark. Open your seam with an iron and overlock. Installing the zip : open your zip fully. Pin one side of your zip right side against right side on your pants from the waist to the zip stop notch (the top of the zip must be 1 cm from the edge of the waist so as not to pick up on your waistband seam allowance). You can first baste your seam by hand in order to stabilize your work. Sew as close as possible to the zip using the special zipper foot on your machine as low as possible. You will be stopped by the pull tab. Close your zip and pin the 2nd side of your zip, taking care to match your seams with your waistline. Again, do not hesitate to baste your seam and check your work before sewing. Sew your seam and remove your basting. Finish sewing each ribbon at the bottom of your zipper into your seam allowances with a regular foot. 
. the shapes: Iron-on your shaping pieces and assemble them right side to right side , LEAVING OPEN THE PART WHERE THE ZIP WILL BE LOCATED (usually on the right for right-handed people and left for left-handed people). Overlock your shaping piece obtained. Position your shaping pieces on your pants right side to right side. Assemble along your pieces and when you reach the corner of the zip, leave the needle in, pivot your piece and finish your sewing at the bottom of your shaping. You will then trim your corners and turn your pieces over. You now have top-notch finishes! Iron well. 
Finishing: You will come to topstitch the edge of your belt, this will have a decorative purpose but also it will flatten your shape well. Widen your stitch as for the topstitching in front, and sew. Hem your bottom of pants, sew your buttons through your buttonholes by sewing the different pieces of fabric well…..and there you have it, congratulations, you have finished your pants! 
