Austen step by step

Hello! As promised, today I am offering the step-by-step assembly of the Austen dress . This tutorial will also be Miss Austen's because the steps are absolutely identical :) I sewed for the occasion a version of my new pattern with a very "beach" bias, in a summery and light, very flexible fabric with wide stripes. The slide is a copper cord that blends nicely with the whole and brings a little cruise feel. ASSEMBLY:

1. You will start by making the bust darts on the front bust piece. Pin after matching the assembly notches. Do not hesitate to trace the sewing area with tailor's chalk or an erasable marker such as Pilot Frixion (can be erased with an iron!!!) or you can baste it with a large stitch, sew from the edge of the garment and finish the tip of your dart by dying along the line on the last 2 stitches. Iron your darts down.
2. Place the front facing right side to right side on the front bust and the back facings on the back bust pieces. Pin and assemble only at the armholes and shoulders. Notch your curves, trim your corners and turn inside out, iron well.
3. Make the buttonholes on your shoulder line of your bust in front.
4. Make the buttonholes on either side of the center front on the waistline (for the dress version only).
5. Assemble your front and back pieces with the sides and facings facing each other right side to right side: pin from the ends of the facings, go up to the underarm seams, placing the front and back seams facing each other, and go down along your dress/blouse to the bottom. Fold your facings towards the inside of the garment and iron, pressing your seam allowances towards the back.
6. Using the mounting notches, position your shoulder pieces with the back shoulder passing under the front shoulder, and baste your shoulders with a wide stitch to fix the position of your pieces. Your shoulder notches must overlap and they will prefigure the line of your buttonholes/buttons .
7. Collar assembly : Assemble your 2 collars right side to right side, keeping the neckline unsewn so that you can turn your work right side out. You can trace your seam allowance to make sewing easier. Notch your corners and angles, trim your seam allowance along your curves and turn right side out. Iron carefully to clearly draw the curves. Assemble your collar by placing it directly on your dress by the free edges of the neckline, under the collar against the right side of the dress/blouse by the neckline. The back of your collar stops about 1cm from your center back, because there is the distance from the seam allowance in the center back to the back facing. So you sew together the facing/bust fabric/2 layers of the collar. You can either finish your neckline neatly by overcasting or by placing a bias along the entire neckline line. In this case, place your bias astride the entire perimeter of your neckline so that it traps your dress-collar assembly seam and sew.
8. The back : fold your back facings right sides together on your back bust (at this stage if you want to close your collar with a ribbon or a strap, integrate them into the assembly so that they are sandwiched between the bust and the facing). Sew up to the notch that marks the back opening. Turn your facings: your neckline seam allowance (whether it was overlocked or edged with bias) will come to stick itself on the inside. Secure your seam allowance with a rib stitch near your neckline (be careful not to sew your collar!) and at the edge of your bias so that it does not come out when you wear your dress.
9. You can now close the back of your work: unfold the back facings and pin them right sides together, match your notches of the back opening, and continue by pinning along the back right sides together. The sewing of the facing/back bust junction is a little tricky, if necessary stop your sewing on the notch (making several back stitches to secure it), and then resume sewing the back bust all the way to the bottom.
10. The casing : mark the seam allowances along your casing strip with an iron (1 cm at the top and 1 cm at the bottom). Sew the ends of the middle back of your strip right side to right side.
11. Using your pattern's markings, pin or even baste your casing on the wrong side of your dress. For a neater seam and a more beautiful finish, sew the assembly seam on the right side of your dress. Finishing touches : hem the bottom of your dress/top. Sew on your 6 pretty buttons. Well there you have it, your beautiful Austen is just waiting for the rays of the sun to follow you in your summer tribulations! I hope this tutorial will help you, don't hesitate to leave me a little note ;).