Sew the Primrose Dress in lined Blue Acanthus lace

The Primrose dress never ceases to surprise. After presenting it to you in Lily viscose jacquard and in Léo viscose poplin, here is a new interpretation of the pattern in our Acanthe lace .

A hand-sewn jewel

My passion for lace is no longer a mystery and I am delighted to integrate this fabric into the Maison Fauve collections. For the Christmas capsule , we offer 2 new laces with ornate foliage patterns. The deep blue or emerald green patterns are bordered with black outlines, and the play of transparency is more marked than for our other laces in the collection. It is a very soft, very supple lace, it drapes perfectly which is perfect for the skater shape of Primrose .

Sew a lined lace dress

To sew my new Primrose dress, the sewing pattern lends itself well to the addition of a lining , so I chose to line the front bust pieces and the skirt.

For the blue Acanthe lace, I had the choice betweenblack cotton voile (which brings out the deep blue of the foliage) or blue cotton voile (which emphasizes the contours). I chose the ink blue voile which blends perfectly with the lace.
I chose to sew the version with the large back neckline, because even if I chose such pretty lace, I wanted my dress to be really spectacular ;)

To line the Primrose dress, the steps are quite simple.

First, the supplies:

The recommended cotton voile consumption is 180 cm for a width of 140. The lace can be ironed without any problem provided that you respect the temperature indicated on the product sheet (ironing at low temperature, maximum 110 degrees, it is the icon with only 1 point on your iron) . You can therefore completely make the cuffs with the twisted pleats.
The front neckline clean piece will not be necessary, you will only cut the back neckline clean piece in your lace, and without adding iron-on adhesive.

Preparing the pattern:

After cutting your pattern in the main fabric (the lace), also cut in the cotton voile:

• The front bust piece

• The set of front and back skirt pieces

• The inner cuff x4: for the lace cuff, I applied the interlining technique described in the video tutorial for the Cicadella lace blouse (the video can be found here). I interpose my thermo-adhesive between 2 cotton voile cuffs that I then join with a seam 0.5 cm from the edge to form a single inner cuff piece

The doubled bust:

• As described on pages 8 and 9 of the brochure, prepare the back of your dress with pre-pleats.

• Assemble your front and back busts lace by the shoulders

• Overlock the bottom of the back neckline cleanliness then assemble it by the shoulders with the front bust lining by pinning the WRONG SIDE of the bust lining against the RIGHT SIDE of the back neckline cleanliness (pin from the neckline towards the edge of the shoulder (the cleanliness will be shorter than the front bust lining, this is normal)

• Then position your front bust assembly lining/neckline trim as we explain for classic neckline trims: pin your lace bust and your cotton voile bust RIGHT SIDE of the lace against WRONG SIDE of the cotton voile through the neckline only, and continue along the back neckline and the center back as described on page 9 to have an impeccable center back hem finish (all these steps can be found in the brochure)

• All you have to do is put your pieces right side out: the lining bust is pressed against the lace bust (WRONG SIDE AGAINST WRONG SIDE), the shoulder seam allowance is hidden under the lining, the front neckline is neatly secured by the lining and the back by the back neckline neatly secured piece.

• Stabilize the bust in front of the fabric/lining by sewing 0.5 cm from the edge (in the seam allowance) so that your pieces will be united and your bust is ready to continue the assembly as described in the step by step.

The lined skirt:

• Assemble the lace front skirt pieces as described in the brochure, then do the same for the lining front skirt.

• Assemble the lace back skirt pieces as described in the brochure, then do the same for the lining back skirt.

• Overlock the sides of your skirts front and back lace and lining

• Place the skirt in front of the lining RIGHT SIDE AGAINST WRONG SIDE of the skirt in front of the lace and assemble at the waistline.

• Place the skirt back lining RIGHT SIDE AGAINST WRONG SIDE of the lace back skirt and assemble by the waist line

• You will then continue assembling the skirt and bust (by the waistline and the bottom of the belt as explained in the brochure) considering the lace/lining skirts as a single piece.
  

At this point your dress has the front and back finished and joined at the shoulders.

Closing the sides:

• Fold the front of the dress over the back so that your pieces are RIGHT SIDE TO RIGHT SIDE

• Pin through the bust each side to the waistline, sew the sides of the lace/lining busts together and overlock the seam allowance from the waist to the armholes

• For the skirt, you need to pin the lace skirts and the cotton voile skirts separately, in order to close the lace skirt with a first line of stitching, then the lining skirt with a separate seam. This way your skater skirt will keep all its movement.

Congratulations, you have finished lining your Primrose dress. All other steps will be identical to the assembly instructions and the video sewing tutorial .

It's up to you to find hand-sewn lace dresses to twirl around in during the holidays!