October 10, 2017
Chalk Dress Tutorial!
Hello! I present to you here a brand new version of my Craie dress , the latest in the new collection. I chose to sew it in a fabric that rhymes with the cold season, flannel. This fabric comes from Printstand , and it's a surprise that Athénais gave me...a big thank you because I really, really like it!!! 
The large polka dot pattern is very trendy, the fabric is perfect for the model and above all it is soft and can be worn next to the skin (because it is still warm here to go out in tights). This model can be worn as is for a very comfortable trapeze shape, but you can also belt your dress (its length and the position of the pockets lend themselves well to this). 
I have already explained to you here the genesis of this model, and the sweetheart neckline is really very appropriate when it comes to highlighting pretty jewelry (you will recognize here the wonders of my friend Ilabella , I have not taken off my necklace since I have it and worn as a choker it is also absolutely stunning! And these earrings...I am a fan, what can I say). 
Here we go for the tutorial on how to assemble your dress: 1. Make your bust darts on your front fabric (and lining if necessary) . First, transfer your darts from your pattern to your fabric by marking the sides of the dart with notches and pass a thread over the tip of the dart to mark the location. Join the top of the dart and the notches with a marker such as Pilot Frixion or tailor's chalk (this forms a triangle). Fold the notches of the dart over each other right side against right side, sew on your traced line and when you reach the tip of the dart, continue to sew in the air on several points. Iron your darts down. Repeat the operation with the lining if you have not chosen the facing option. 
2. Assemble your front and back fabric pieces by the shoulders, positioning them right side against right side. Do the same with the lining or facing pieces on the front and back. You will notice that for a better hold of the neckline I placed a strip of iron-on adhesive on the edge of the neckline of my facing. Open the shoulder seams with an iron. 
Come and superimpose your fabric and lining or facing pieces right side against right side, and pin all along the neckline only (assemble all around the neckline). 
To help you sew the tip of the neckline, transfer your sewing line and the middle of your bust, and follow your outline carefully. When you are a few points from the "V" shorten your stitch length to land on your center line. At this point, keep the needle planted, lift your foot and pivot your work to continue on the rest of the outline. Notch the tip of your cutouts and all your curves well and you reduce your seam allowances. Turn your work right side out. 
Iron your work well so that your necklines in front and back are well defined. You get your dress with the right side of the lining that will be against your body and the right side of the fabric that will be visible. 3. The pockets: position your pocket bottom on the front dress portion right side against right side and assemble. Unfold the pocket and iron well. Do the same on each side of the dress in front AND back. 
Assembling the sides : pin right sides together by the sides your front and back fabric pieces with the pockets deployed and sew around the pockets (stop sewing at the top of the pocket, and with the needle planted, lift the foot of your machine and pivot your work to sew around the pocket, at the bottom of the pocket pivot again and finish your sewing at the bottom of your dress). Repeat the operation for the lining pieces without of course the pockets step. For the facing, sew the front and back sides right sides together. Overlock the edges of your seams and iron the excess seam to the back. 
If you have chosen the facing option, overlock the entire bottom and sides of your facing. Your garment now looks like a sleeveless lined dress, fabric and lining joined by the neckline. Sleeves: After having traced the mark of your future slit, come and make a reinforcement stitch along it, and cut between your reinforcement seams. 
On the right side of the sleeve, pin your bias strip right sides together along your reinforcement seam, and open your slit as much as possible to pin along the entire length. Sew. 
Turn your bias strip over and fold it x2 to obtain your folded edge on the wrong side. Use the iron to shape and flatten your folded bias as best as possible. Pin and sew. Be careful, your bias strip must perfectly cover your first assembly seam. 
The end of your slit therefore includes the fold of the bias: come and reinforce this area with a double stitch at 45 degrees. 
You can close your sleeve by sewing the side seam right side to right side. Overlock. 
Using a gathering thread , you will gather your entire bottom of the sleeve . To do this: release the thread tension on your machine, lengthen your stitch, and change your bobbin thread for a contrasting thread. Sew in the seam allowance and leave a length of thread before cutting it. By pulling on the bobbin thread, you will create gathers. They will be distributed when assembling them with the cuff using the markings on the cuff. 
Making the cuff: Iron-on your cuff. Fold right side to right side along your fold line and iron well. Pin the ends of your cuffs and sew 1 cm apart. Trim your corners and turn your cuff over, iron well. 
Cuff assembly : pin your cuff right side against right side on your sleeve (the cuff notch goes on the front portion of the tear-proof slit so this area protrudes): your piece has notches to help you position it: your button placket therefore goes beyond your sleeve (the longest portion will be the one that will support your buttonhole, it is therefore positioned above the area in continuity with your wrist slit when you close). Pin well and sew then turn your cuff. Fold your seam allowance inside your cuff, and secure with a seam that will be visible along your cuff. 
Make your buttonholes and sew your buttons. You will come to mount your sleeve on your garment by pinning right side against right side (use your mounting notches well, 2 in front 1 on the back, and 1 notch for the sleeve head which corresponds to the shoulder seam). You will therefore have 3 layers: facing, body fabric and sleeve. Overlock your seam. 
Finishing touches: Sew your hem at the bottom of your dress by making an invisible hem by hand or using your sewing machine. If you have chosen to sew a lining, make a hem that allows your lining to be a little shorter, this will prevent it from sticking out and being seen. Well congratulations, you can put on your Craie dress, button your pretty cuffs, and above all enjoy! 
The large polka dot pattern is very trendy, the fabric is perfect for the model and above all it is soft and can be worn next to the skin (because it is still warm here to go out in tights). This model can be worn as is for a very comfortable trapeze shape, but you can also belt your dress (its length and the position of the pockets lend themselves well to this). I have already explained to you here the genesis of this model, and the sweetheart neckline is really very appropriate when it comes to highlighting pretty jewelry (you will recognize here the wonders of my friend Ilabella , I have not taken off my necklace since I have it and worn as a choker it is also absolutely stunning! And these earrings...I am a fan, what can I say). Here we go for the tutorial on how to assemble your dress: 1. Make your bust darts on your front fabric (and lining if necessary) . First, transfer your darts from your pattern to your fabric by marking the sides of the dart with notches and pass a thread over the tip of the dart to mark the location. Join the top of the dart and the notches with a marker such as Pilot Frixion or tailor's chalk (this forms a triangle). Fold the notches of the dart over each other right side against right side, sew on your traced line and when you reach the tip of the dart, continue to sew in the air on several points. Iron your darts down. Repeat the operation with the lining if you have not chosen the facing option. 2. Assemble your front and back fabric pieces by the shoulders, positioning them right side against right side. Do the same with the lining or facing pieces on the front and back. You will notice that for a better hold of the neckline I placed a strip of iron-on adhesive on the edge of the neckline of my facing. Open the shoulder seams with an iron. Come and superimpose your fabric and lining or facing pieces right side against right side, and pin all along the neckline only (assemble all around the neckline). To help you sew the tip of the neckline, transfer your sewing line and the middle of your bust, and follow your outline carefully. When you are a few points from the "V" shorten your stitch length to land on your center line. At this point, keep the needle planted, lift your foot and pivot your work to continue on the rest of the outline. Notch the tip of your cutouts and all your curves well and you reduce your seam allowances. Turn your work right side out. Iron your work well so that your necklines in front and back are well defined. You get your dress with the right side of the lining that will be against your body and the right side of the fabric that will be visible. 3. The pockets: position your pocket bottom on the front dress portion right side against right side and assemble. Unfold the pocket and iron well. Do the same on each side of the dress in front AND back. Assembling the sides : pin right sides together by the sides your front and back fabric pieces with the pockets deployed and sew around the pockets (stop sewing at the top of the pocket, and with the needle planted, lift the foot of your machine and pivot your work to sew around the pocket, at the bottom of the pocket pivot again and finish your sewing at the bottom of your dress). Repeat the operation for the lining pieces without of course the pockets step. For the facing, sew the front and back sides right sides together. Overlock the edges of your seams and iron the excess seam to the back. If you have chosen the facing option, overlock the entire bottom and sides of your facing. Your garment now looks like a sleeveless lined dress, fabric and lining joined by the neckline. Sleeves: After having traced the mark of your future slit, come and make a reinforcement stitch along it, and cut between your reinforcement seams. On the right side of the sleeve, pin your bias strip right sides together along your reinforcement seam, and open your slit as much as possible to pin along the entire length. Sew. Turn your bias strip over and fold it x2 to obtain your folded edge on the wrong side. Use the iron to shape and flatten your folded bias as best as possible. Pin and sew. Be careful, your bias strip must perfectly cover your first assembly seam. The end of your slit therefore includes the fold of the bias: come and reinforce this area with a double stitch at 45 degrees. You can close your sleeve by sewing the side seam right side to right side. Overlock. Using a gathering thread , you will gather your entire bottom of the sleeve . To do this: release the thread tension on your machine, lengthen your stitch, and change your bobbin thread for a contrasting thread. Sew in the seam allowance and leave a length of thread before cutting it. By pulling on the bobbin thread, you will create gathers. They will be distributed when assembling them with the cuff using the markings on the cuff. Making the cuff: Iron-on your cuff. Fold right side to right side along your fold line and iron well. Pin the ends of your cuffs and sew 1 cm apart. Trim your corners and turn your cuff over, iron well. Cuff assembly : pin your cuff right side against right side on your sleeve (the cuff notch goes on the front portion of the tear-proof slit so this area protrudes): your piece has notches to help you position it: your button placket therefore goes beyond your sleeve (the longest portion will be the one that will support your buttonhole, it is therefore positioned above the area in continuity with your wrist slit when you close). Pin well and sew then turn your cuff. Fold your seam allowance inside your cuff, and secure with a seam that will be visible along your cuff. Make your buttonholes and sew your buttons. You will come to mount your sleeve on your garment by pinning right side against right side (use your mounting notches well, 2 in front 1 on the back, and 1 notch for the sleeve head which corresponds to the shoulder seam). You will therefore have 3 layers: facing, body fabric and sleeve. Overlock your seam. Finishing touches: Sew your hem at the bottom of your dress by making an invisible hem by hand or using your sewing machine. If you have chosen to sew a lining, make a hem that allows your lining to be a little shorter, this will prevent it from sticking out and being seen. Well congratulations, you can put on your Craie dress, button your pretty cuffs, and above all enjoy!
