She's finally here...Sew me tender, love in your wardrobe.

Hello! A little happiness never comes alone ;) the new collection is now available, and it's every time like the first time... carrier hassle, last minute photos, insomnia, stage fright... and then badabammmm the patterns are online! ****spoiler******tutorials all fresh and beautiful in this article !!!!!!!!!!! With each new collection, it's a new beginning. I always worry about whether you'll like the models, whether you'll still recognize yourself in my choices. And then above all from season to season the stakes become higher. For this latest collection I took the plunge with custom packaging (no more sticking stickers in front of Netflix ;) ). Because I really believe in my beautiful story, and the possibility of being truly and totally creative and entrepreneurial is gradually emerging. It's a question of courage above all, the courage to let go, to look your life in the face. When you discover like me a devouring passion "late", that this passion becomes a second profession, it gradually takes up all the space. And there I am at a crossroads, I will have to let go of the rope with one hand to seize my chance with all my might. Because living with regrets is still a shame. I don't have any big announcement to make to you, I still haven't taken this last step, and I continue to juggle between my work as a dental surgeon and that of a pattern designer. And if you want to know more about my daily life as a designer and my entrepreneurial experience go listen to the podcast to which Louise de Cornelia dixit invited me and which is dedicated to entrepreneurship in the couture sphere. But the reception you give to my collections and my work is always so crazy, your presence and all your messages on Instagram give me a boost and confirm me in the idea that I may have found my place. So THANK YOU , thank you for being there, thank you for your trust, thank you for allowing me to believe in my dream a little more each day. And of course a thousand-fold thank you to my testers for sharing and supporting them, and a big big thank you to Zoé and Yannick who tested, approved and injected a huge dose of Love into this new collection!!!! Zoé is my great sewing friend, we shared our stands at the CSF last year, we're happy to do it again this year. And when I told her about my men's pattern project, she supported me and above all she decided to follow me and offer at Eglantine and Zoé a perfect choice of cotton for my patterns.... You can't imagine how rare and precious kindness and sharing are, and that Zoé takes this "risk" with me touches me so much! And they are just perfect to embody Sew me tender! I hope with all my heart that I have managed to seduce you with this new collection. As always, it answers the crucial question of "what would I like to wear this winter?" And I wanted an easy wardrobe, comfortable but always feminine pieces. Regarding the Sparrow men's shirt , you already know everything ;) I'll let you reread the previous article where I detail this first Maison Fauve piece for the men's wardrobe. The small details are particularly well-crafted: pretty cuffs, a buttoned placket, and its collar...; Thanks to Matthieu and Yannick for their patience and... what beautiful models ;) The Swallow shirt had been on my mind for a while... I have a few "classic" shirts bought in stores, and although I like the idea of ​​the fitted shirt, I notice that I rarely wear them. So I thought about what I don't like about these shirts: the very tight line, the fitted shoulders, I find myself too dressed up when I put them on. So I chose a line that was less close to the body and the ease is notably brought by the gathered back under the yoke (hello, piping-loving friends!), I lowered the shoulder line (I know that not everyone is a fan, but it's something that I find brings modernity), and then above all I gave it the same little broken collar so distinctive and common with the Sparrow men's shirt. And so that your pattern (and your wardrobe) can follow you throughout the seasons, I have chosen to offer 3 sleeve finishes (3/4, long, and a sleeveless version where the armholes and therefore the bust have been reworked). I am showing you here the 3/4 sleeve version with sleeve cuff, made in a very beautiful viscose twill from Eglantine et Zoé . It is clearly a perfect fabric for my pretty blouse, because the drape is very supple (and it is soft!!!). And Zoé offers you a viscose version and a cotton version (my friend is so beautiful!). The Sybil blouse or dress is clearly the piece where you feel good. So feminine with its neckline, and yet comfortable. Its beautiful fullness makes it spectacular in a patterned fabric! And for having sewn it in many fabrics, I really think that viscose remains the material of choice because its fluidity calms the fullness of the bottom of the dress under the empire waist, the gathers are thus less marked. I show you these few photos taken during the shooting of my friend Ilabella for her winter jewelry collection (wonders available tomorrow!!!). And you can see that on the tunic, I chose here to sandwich between the bust and the lining a small tie rather than putting buttons (yes yes I am crazy about style). And I find that it goes well with this beautiful very colorful fabric from Eglantine et Zoé . The dress version is not left out on the print side (my husband hates it, I love it so much!!!). It is a Rifle paper viscose purchased from Motif personnel . The Sailo dungarees r ... what could be nicer than dungarees, and what dungarees! In the pants or shorts version, they are distinguished by their knotted shoulder detail, their front buttoning, and the shorts or pants version allows you to consider multiple versions. I have also worn them a lot since this summer and they really are the pleasure piece of the wardrobe: easy to sew, pleasant to wear, and very suitable for everyday use. November promises to be a busy month, between preparing for the CSF, finalizing the pattern tests for sizes 48 to 56 and a somewhat special professional event that I will come back to. I will gradually post tutorials for the patterns. But I don't want to leave you helpless when it comes to 2 models in particular, my pretty lovebirds Sparrow and Swallow! This blouse duo is the starting point for this Sew me tender collection. Designed with my lover, these 2 models are quite technical and I preferred to focus on the most delicate points for these patterns: the English seam which gives your shirts a very studied finish, the capuchin placket of the men's shirt, and the hidden button placket common to both models. To make it very "meaningful", I used high-contrast samples so that the photos are as clear and readable as possible. These little tutorials are a complement to your brochure (on which I made a lot of diagrams).

• English sewing:

The 2 patterns have this in common, an English seam assembly for a neat finish. I therefore suggest you use this very simple assembly method which ensures very clean work. Instead of assembling your pieces right side against right side, you position them wrong side against wrong side and you sew 0.5 cm from the edge. Cut slightly to reduce seam allowances and press your seam open. Fold your fabric pieces right side to right side and sew 1 cm from the edge. Your first seam will thus be enclosed in the second. Iron the seam obtained on the wrong side of the fabric. In order to properly flatten your seams, you will topstitch the seam allowances on the right side. Here is the result obtained on the right side of the blouse. And here is what you will have inside your garment.

• the capuchin paw:

This is a complex technique, I recommend that you practice doing it once or twice on a sample before starting on your handle. Your board has a reference drawing of the future slot that you will transfer to the back of your handle. You mark folds on your 2 pieces with the iron according to the photos below:

• Mark the top of the slit on the back of your sleeve with a thread that sticks out at each corner or with an erasable marker and position your pieces edge to edge right side of the capuchin flap pieces on the back of the sleeve , along the outline of the slit. Sew 1 cm from the edges of each piece until you reach the end of the slit mark. Open the slit as described in the diagram.

• Turn your pieces inside out through the slot on the right side of the sleeve.

• on your piece under flap reform the folds according to the marks with the iron as in the diagram: make a seam allowance on edge 1 and fold this strip over edge 2 of the slit. The seam allowances will be enclosed in the strip like a bias. Then sew the strip, on the right side, stitching 2 minutes from the edge and stopping at the end of the slit.

• On the capuchin flap piece: fold the capuchin flap a first time to bring it back to the seam line of the underflap strip. Mark with an iron. Then fold this strip a second time so as to bring the edge 3 , having taken care to make a seam allowance, on the edge 4 of the slit. The objective is for the capuchin flap to cover the underflap by an equal width.

• Go back and mark the tips of the capuchin placket with an iron, overlap the strips and pin to mark the top of the slit before sewing. Then make the seam that will secure the capuchin placket: start from the bottom of the sleeve, being careful not to sew the under placket with the top placket. Once you reach the pin, sew by this time pinning the 2 plackets together. Make the point, go down and stop sewing still at the pin mark. Keeping the needle stuck in the fabric, describe a nice X to finish the placket.

• buttoning under flap:

-the front bust part supporting the buttons (right or left depending on whether you are sewing Swallow or Sparrow): your pattern has fold marks for what will be your future button placket supporting the buttons. Shape your folds as shown in the photos by folding the fabric wrong side to wrong side and making a small 1 cm fold on the free edge which will be topstitched. Make the seam that secures your placket on the right side.  -the front bust that will support the buttonholes hidden under the placket: first make your button placket that will hide your buttonholes. Your pattern has fold marks for this placket, trace the folds with an erasable pen or tailor's chalk. Sew your placket right side against right side on the middle of the front at 1 cm, iron flat. Follow the outline of your folds, marking them well with the iron (fold wrong side to wrong side, then right side to right side and again wrong side to wrong side…like an accordion) and fold the free edge of your piece over 1 cm. Sew the topstitching on the right side of the bust that will stabilize your placket. Make all your buttonholes. Secure your button placket with stitches along the C mark. I hope that these tutorials that cover the most technical stitches have helped you. Others will follow, I promise ;) Find the patterns for the new collection on the online store here . Have a great weekend! Emilie