FAQ on Nomade patterns and fabrics
Each collection launch is a festive moment, I love feeling your emulation, your enthusiasm when discovering the patterns and fabrics. But I also know that many of you want to receive more information about the new products. So I have compiled here everything that seems relevant to me to best support you in your choices or clarify certain points. This FAQ will answer the most frequently asked questions, whether about our sewing patterns or our fabrics. It focuses on the Le Rivage collection but some points can also have a more global scope. Let's go!
About sewing patterns
I'm not an expert in sewing, but I fell for the Rafale windbreaker which is advertised as advanced. Do you think I can make them?
All our sewing patterns have an illustrated booklet, as well as a very detailed step-by-step video accessible for free in the Tutorials section of our site as well as on our YouTube channel (it is not necessary to buy the pattern to view our videos). You can already watch our videos to determine the difficulty and the technical points covered. In addition, here is how I determine the technical level of a pattern:
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The number of pieces: in fact, the more pieces a pattern has, the greater the risk of error, from the moment the pattern is transferred to the fabric (the risks of stretching, shifting, or transferring the pieces incorrectly are multiplied)
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Technical points covered: the Rafale pattern has many pieces, and there are many assembly steps. The technical points taken individually are not particularly difficult (sewing an invisible zip, assembling a lined hood on a neckline properly, making an Angular seam or a folded seam), but they are cumulative within the same pattern, hence the level of difficulty estimated as advanced.
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Choosing the fabric: if a slightly technical model catches your eye but you have some doubts about your ability to sew it, you can perhaps still try it provided you choose a fabric that is easy to sew.
Water-repellent fabric is more technical to sew than lightweight denim or cotton canvas. Be sure to carefully consult the pattern brochure and identify each piece before you start.
Moreover, the advice to "sew a toile", like a draft of the garment will be even more relevant if the sewing level is a little higher than yours: you will have discovered the pattern and the techniques covered for the first time, before launching into your beautiful fabric. There is nothing better than practice to discover and assimilate new techniques.
Also, don't hesitate to carefully consult the pattern brochure and identify each piece before you start.
Will the patterns from the Nomade collection also be available in PDF?
The new collections are only offered in pretty pouches embellished with the exclusive pattern of the collection. We will not offer the Nomade patterns in PDF format for the moment. In order to know how we work with the PDF format, you can watch this video available on our YouTube channel.
Can the Ressac sweatshirt be sewn with a sewing machine instead of a serger?
To sew your pattern, we recommend using a serger with a 4-thread overlock stitch , sewing will be faster with impeccable finishes and a "more durable" garment, which will not risk being damaged quickly over the washes. But the assembly can also be done with the sewing machine with the special jersey elastic stitch of your machine and a suitable needle.
In addition, some seams will be done by machine: the patch pocket is assembled with a classic straight stitch, and the neckline is finished with a double needle.
NB: The seam allowances are included and are 1 cm, you will need to take this into account when assembling your garment with the overlocker.
Can the Rafale windbreaker be doubled?
Apart from the hood which will be fully lined, the Rafale windbreaker pattern does not provide for a lining, and its assembly range is not made for this purpose. Furthermore, the finishes of this garment are extremely elaborate, in order to have a very clean rendering on the reverse as well as on the right side (English seams, folded seams, clean finish of the zip). The lining is not necessary nor recommended, as for this type of garment in stores, it is a windbreaker intended for light fabrics, it is not an overcoat or a parka. Its ease allows it to be worn comfortably with a sweater or sweatshirt.
Can the Ressac sweatshirt be sewn in warp and weft fabric rather than in knit?
This will not be possible without significantly modifying the pattern. The neckline and cuffs in particular are designed for a ribbed finish, therefore with significant elasticity. The pattern pieces are not developed for a warp and weft fabric, even with elastane.
Are the patterns in the Nomade collection unisex?
The Ressac sweatshirt and Rafale windbreaker patterns are adult patterns, tested only on women, but they have a cut that allows them to be considered on different body types. The ease is comfortable in both patterns. On the other hand, they are developed for a height of 1m65 in size 36. It will then be necessary to adapt the height of the pattern to the person who will wear it. The finished garment measurements of the 2 patterns are available on each product sheet in order to evaluate possible transformations. If necessary, do not hesitate to download our “free little guide to custom sewing” to adapt the patterns to your body shape.
Can we use standard commercial cords to replace the hood and bottom drawstrings of the Rafale windbreaker?
This is no problem. You will estimate the size of the cord from the pattern pieces. You will need to adapt the size of the buttonholes used to slide the drawstrings according to the size of your cord.
Do we have to use ribbing to sew the Ressac sweatshirt?
The ribbing provided on the sleeve and side panels of the sweatshirt can be replaced with the same fabric as your sweatshirt, however the pattern pieces for the collar, cuffs and back waistband are specifically designed for 100% elastic ribbing (like our Maison Fauve ribbing).
If you choose to sew everything in sweatshirt fabric, you will need to adapt these pattern pieces and do some testing.
What are the yardages if I want to sew the Rafale windbreaker in several colors?
We indicate on the product sheet of the patterns the yardage indications and the list of supplies to sew your garment. For Rafale , we also indicate what are the recommended yardages to sew a tricolor windbreaker, with the distribution of colors like the water-repellent canvas windbreaker that Julie wears, with the quantity for each section of the garment. We will not be able to give you information for other "combinations", I recommend that you come and measure the desired yardage for other color combinations directly on your pattern pieces.
About Fabrics
What are the elasticity rates of French Terry and ribbing fabrics?
Our 100% cotton French Terry sweat fabrics have an elasticity rate of 50%. The elasticity rate of our ribbed fabrics is 100%.
Can the Rafale windbreaker be sewn in the new Sergio denim fabrics?
This is too heavy a fabric for this pattern. The denim model shown in our visuals is sewn in the lightweight Macadam denim fabric (which will soon be back in stock). Sergio fabrics will be perfect for sewing a Pilar or Dandelion denim blouse, Hussard jeans, Récif pants or even a Vipère jumpsuit.
Is the water-repellent fabric offered on your site waterproof?
A water-repellent fabric is a fabric on which water will slide without penetrating. In other words, the water will "bead" on the surface of the fabric. You can see this in the photos available on the fabric's product sheet. It is a fabric that is suitable for light rain, but it will not be able to withstand the same constraints and ensure the same waterproofing as a waterproof fabric such as a waxed or coated fabric. It is perfectly suitable for sewing a windbreaker which by definition is not a garment designed for heavy rain.
Is twin needle finishing essential for sewing sweatshirt fabric?
This is not a necessary finish for the assembly steps of the Ressac sweatshirt. But the double needle finish allows the seam allowance to be firmly placed on the neckline, and it offers a level of finish that will have nothing to envy to the pretty ready-to-wear sportswear pieces ;)
