Unlined jacket sewing tutorial

Good morning !

Welcome to this new video about our favorite of the season, the Pam coat with its pretty shawl collar, large flap pockets and loose fit. So we take the same and we start again... A new version!

Sewing the lining of a coat or jacket is not essential to make a first pretty mid-season piece, especially if the reverse side of your fabric is as pretty as the front side (like our lovely Scott tweed ;) ).

We detailed in the previous tutorial "Sewing Secrets" how to join a checked fabric and your pieces of fabric are therefore ready for this new step. To prevent the fabric from fraying, the entire circumference of the pieces will have been overlocked, the specified areas interfacing with iron-on adhesive (bottom of the garment, bottom of the sleeves, facing and back shaping, under collar).

The video will show you the techniques to assemble your garment without sewing the lining of the coat. In order to have a coat as beautiful on the outside as on the inside, we will edge the seams: these are finishes with a bias that covers the seam allowances.

Applying bias ensures a clean finish, even decorative if you choose a contrasting bias. Applying bias is done before assembling your pattern pieces , and we will trim:

• The sides and shoulders of the front and back pieces
• The sides of the sleeve pieces and the bottom of the sleeve
• The facing tour

The quantities of bias needed for the short and long Pam coat, as well as the tutorial for attaching bias are indicated directly in the video.

For my coat, I chose not to braid the seams of the sleeve head and the bottom of the garment because the tweed is thick and I didn't want to risk stiffening my seams in these areas. The seam allowances will therefore simply be overlocked. Depending on your choice of fabric, all of the seams can be braided (velvet, light denim, gabardine, fine wool).

In short (above the knee), Pam has a very different look and with its pretty checks it changes from my other versions! I edged my seams with a black bias, it contrasts without shocking (the beige, navy, brown and black combination is really elegant). The bias will be visible at the bottom of the sleeves and as I always wear them rolled up the inside of the sleeves also edged is visible (the "couture" touch!). The bottom hem is made with an invisible stitch sewn by hand and the facing is also stabilized by hand stitches, as well as the back shape which is understitched with the seam allowance of the under collar (I promised you neat finishes, didn't I?!).

I embellished my coat with gold-rimmed pearly shank buttons from Rascol , real gems! I really like my new coat, and I don't regret taking the time to take care of my fittings and finishes.

And if you want to take the plunge, find here a step-by-step video to sew your coat with a lining (obviously your sewing pattern includes all the lining pieces and the lining/facing assembly, the assembly of the lining with the garment, all these technical points are detailed in the brochure and the video tutorial for the Pam coat).

I wish you a lovely sewing moment and I hope that the sewing techniques covered in this tutorial will be useful to you for many sewing projects! Julie and I are very happy to see all your comments under the YouTube videos and to meet you for these shared sewing moments. Accompanying you in your projects, allowing you to progress and dare to try new techniques is our goal video after video. Sewing remains a technical discipline but I am convinced that we progress very quickly and that the pleasure of creating your wardrobe, whether it is a pretty everyday blouse or a very constructed coat, is even greater when you have also learned new things.

Have a nice day!