How to shorten or lengthen a top pattern (jacket, dress and blouse)

For more details on methods A and B, refer to the article entitled "Basic techniques for shortening or lengthening a pattern."

In the case of a fairly significant pattern extension, it is important to check that the modified model remains loose enough at the hips.

Basic material to perform a transformation

To transform a pattern, it is advisable to have:

• Adhesive tape

• A parrot rule

• A square

• A graduated ruler

• A support sheet

• A pair of paper scissors

• A fine-tipped pencil/criterion

Method A : Cut the pattern pieces in 2 and add or subtract the desired amount between these 2 parts.

• Draw an axis perpendicular to the straight grain and to the front and back centers. Place it anywhere between the hem line and the underarm point. However, avoid placing it at the waistline, if it is marked. Also avoid drawing on darts or assembly marks.

Mark this line preferably at the same height on the front and back.

• Cut on the line, then spread the pieces apart to lengthen the pattern or overlap the pieces to shorten the pattern.

Case of a simple bodice.
Example on the Bloom scalloped top.

Case of a more complex bodice with cutout.
Example on the Tsar trench coat.

Method B : Modify the bottom of the pieces in line with the existing outline.

• Report the value to be added/subtracted below/above the front and back hem line. 

• Smoothly trace the new hem line starting from this mark and remaining parallel to the old line.

• Trace the sides in line with the existing outline.

Case of a simple bodice that we want to lengthen.
The Bloom scalloped top.

Case of a more complex bodice with a cut that you want to shorten.
The Tsar trench coat.

Defining the transformation value

The basic height used at Maison Fauve is 1m65.

For a height of 1m70, you will need to lengthen a blouse by +2 cm and a dress by +3 cm.

Beyond 1m70, you will need to lengthen a blouse by +3 cm and a dress by +4 cm.

Below 1m70, you will have to shorten a blouse by -1 cm and a dress by -2 cm.