How to move a shoulder seam?

Depending on your body shape and posture, the shoulder seam may not be in the right place. It may be too far forward in the front or too close to the back.

Basic material to perform a transformation

To transform a pattern, it is advisable to have:

• Adhesive tape

• A parrot rule

• A square

• A graduated ruler

• A support sheet

• A pair of paper scissors

• A fine-tipped pencil/criterion

Method A: Parallel movement, when the shoulder line is drawn in a straight line.

• Set the shoulder seam tilt value to the front or back direction.

• Draw the new shoulder line on the affected piece.

• Using a pair of scissors, cut along this line to detach the rectangular shaped area.

• Merge this area along the shoulder of the other piece (on the back if you drew your new shoulder line on the front or vice versa).

• If the pattern has sleeves, move the sleeve head mark the same amount as the shoulder seam. Measure the back/front armholes again to ensure the notches are correctly positioned, while taking into account any gathers or gaps. If the pattern has a collar or yoke, do the same thing at the neckline.

Alterations must also be made to facings and linings, if the pattern provides for them.

Variation: It is quite possible to use this technique to change the inclination of the shoulder seam. This means that only one of the two points (neckline or armhole) remains fixed (does not move). Draw the new shoulder line starting from this fixed point. The area to be tilted does not form a rectangle but a triangle.

Method B: Parallel movement, when the shoulder line is drawn in a slight curve.

Set the shoulder seam tilt value towards the front or back.

• Draw an axis on the back, about 1 cm from the shoulder seam, connecting the neckline to the armhole.

• Do the same on the front.

• Cut on these axes.

• On one piece, spread the two parts apart by the shoulder seam allowance. Conversely, on the other piece, overlap the two parts by the same amount. If the shoulder seam is to be tilted towards the front, it is the back that will need to be spread apart, and the front that will need to be reduced.

• Trace the neckline and armhole lines.

• If the pattern has sleeves, move the sleeve head mark the same amount as the shoulder seam. Measure the back/front armholes again to ensure the notches are correctly positioned, while taking into account any gathers or gaps. If the pattern has a collar or yoke, do the same at the neckline. Alterations should also be made to facings and linings, if the pattern has them.

Variation: It is quite possible to use this technique to change the angle of the shoulder seam. This means that only one of the two points (neckline or armhole) remains fixed (does not move). Trace your axes on the front and back pieces starting from this fixed point and stopping about 1 cm from the shoulder seam on the other side. Spread and reduce the pieces only on one side of the axis without touching the fixed point.