How to adjust pants: crotch too loose or too tight?

Adjusting pants

A crotch that is not properly drawn at the intersection with the crotch causes discomfort, both when the line is too high and when it is too low. A balance of lines is the guarantee of fitting pants. 

But before tackling an adjustment of the pattern, it is recommended to try on a fabric and note the problems encountered. Indeed, the measurement table provided with the pattern does not really allow you to know if such a detailed modification is necessary on a pair of pants.

Note: For the definition of the term " crotch ", refer to the article "How to adjust pants: flat or strong buttocks" .

Basic material to perform a transformation

To transform a pattern, it is advisable to have:

• Adhesive tape

• A parrot rule

• A square

• A graduated ruler

• A support sheet

• A pair of paper scissors

• A fine-tipped pencil/criterion

Fork too loose

When the fork is too loose, it means that its path is much too low. Ease is added at the level of the upright, but it is more difficult to spread the legs.

It is therefore necessary to go back up the curved path.

Fork too tight

If the seam of the pants tends to squeeze the buttocks and pubis, then the curve of the crotch is much too high and the body does not have enough room to perform its movements.

It is therefore necessary to go back down the curved path.

Transformation to be carried out

The method is identical for both cases.

Key point : it is necessary to have a parrot in order to carry out the adjustment.

• On the front and back fork, draw a line perpendicular to the straight grain, at the intersection with the crotch.

• On this axis, mark a new point above to raise the fork or below to lower the fork. First try with a value equal to 2 cm, then increase or decrease it as needed.

• According to this new reference point, retrace the curve of the fork by joining the part drawn in a straight line.

• Still from this new reference point, trace the line of the crotch in a slight curve.

• Once the modification is complete, check that the front and back inseam lengths are the same. If not, modify the fork height again.

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